Anthropologic Significance of Clothing

Supplementary

Úvodní prvek:

ASO

The course is concerned with history and significance of clothing. The analysis is focused both – on phenomenon of clothing, that is considered to be a universal feature common to all humanity, and on the other hand, we will study cultural, historical, social and individual diversity of particular clothing styles. Attention will be paid to the socio-cultural and historical context, with emphasis on the European civilisation from antiquity to the present. Furthermore, symbolic functions and meaning will be analysed. The perspective applied is interdisciplinary, joining together history, philosophy, art history and ethnography.

The aim is to synthetize, organise and improve the knowledge of students, particularly in the fields mentioned above. Based on the individual examples of particular clothing styles, we aim to support the proposition that beyond this multicultural diversity, there are universal, transcultural principles.

Curriculum: 1) practical protective function of clothing, 2) symbolic transformation from “natural” creature to a cultural humanity, “it is clothes what make the man”, 3) symbol of individuality restraint or of personal creativity and self-presentation, 4) intercultural context: standards of beauty and their paradoxes, 5) culture shock from a diverse visual impression and clothing conventions, 6) communication and orientation, 7) symbols of social status, 8) clothing style over one’s own social status and financial limit, “sumptuary laws“, 9) dresses as a public presentation of political, family or regional affiliation: distinction from the “others”, 10) public presentation of religious belief 11) clothing and rites of passage, 12) purposely warning sign, 13) negative symbolism: coercion and negative sanctions against specific ethnic/ socio/ cultural group, 14) highlighting or veiling of natural beauty and sexual symbolism, 15) emphasize or negation of the nature of the human body, freedom of movement or stiffness, 16) “one must suffer to be beautiful”: discomfort and fashion, 17), colours: universal physiology of color perception, 18), intercultural differences: various concepts and categories of colour observed in diverse socio-cultural systems, 19) interpretation of colour seemingly obvious assumptions of our everyday life, 20) symbols and meanings as a part of our socio-cultural systems, 21) nonverbal communication, 22) basic and complementary colours according to Euro-American cultural interpretation

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ARNOLD, Janet. Patterns of Fashion 2: Englishwomen’s Dresses and Their Construction: 1860-1940, Wace 1966, Macmillan 1972, revised metric edition, Drama Books 1977.
CROWFOOT, Elisabeth; PRITCHARD, Frances; STANILAND, Kay. Textiles and Clothing 1150 – 1450, Boydell Press 2006.
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LIPOVETSKY, Gilles. Le luxe éternel, Gallimard 2003. MARTIN, Richard. The Ceaseless Century: Three Hundred Years of Eighteenth-Century Costume, MET 1998.
MIKHAILA, Ninya; MALCOLM-DAVIES, Jane. The Tudor Tailor: Reconstructing 16th-century Dress. Anova Books: 2006.
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RACINET, Albert a SAUSSET, Damien, ed. The costume history: from ancient times to the 19th century = Die Kostümgeschichte: vom Altertum bis zum 19. Jahrhundert = Le costume historique: du monde antique au XIXe siecle. Taschen 2009.
THURSFIELD, Sarah. The Medieval Tailor’s Assistant: making common garments 1200 -1500. Ruth Bean Publishers .
TURNER, Victor Witter. The Ritual Process : Structure and Anti-structure. Aldine Transaction 2008.
VAN GENNEP, Arnold. Les rites de passage: Étudesystématique des rites de la porte et du seuil, de l’hospitalité, de l’adoption, de la grossesse et de l’accouchement de la naissance, de l’enfance, de la puberté, de l’initiation, de l’ordination, ducouronnement, des fiançailles et dumariage, des funérailles, des saisons, etc., Éditions A. et J. Picard 1981.
WAUGH, Norah. The Cut of Men’s Clothes: 1600-1900, Theatre Arts Books 1987.

Úvodní prvek:

ASO